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- <text id=89TT0842>
- <title>
- Mar. 27, 1989: Dining With Invisible Danger
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1989
- Mar. 27, 1989 Is Anything Safe?
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- NATION, Page 28
- Dining with Invisible Danger
- </hdr><body>
- <p>Meals are rarely deadly, but consumers have reason to complain
- </p>
- <p>By Anastasia Toufexis
- </p>
- <p> Remember the good old days when Americans did not know too
- much about what they were eating and drinking? People would
- nod approvingly as they pushed their carts through supermarkets.
- The fruits and vegetables were piled high in glistening mounds,
- the pristine boxes and shiny cans crammed on shelves, the
- chickens sitting plumply in refrigerated cases, and the fish
- shimmering on crystalline beds of ice. The entire scene seemed
- drenched in wholesomeness.
- </p>
- <p> Those days are long gone. Last week's panics over poisoned
- grapes and tainted apples were merely the latest in a
- relentless series of food scares. Anyone who reads newspapers
- or watches TV knows that invisible dangers lurk in every aisle
- of the grocery store. Shoppers have been told that the produce
- is peppered with pesticides, the boxes and cans packed with
- treacherous additives, the meat stuffed with powerful drugs, the
- chickens spattered with bacteria, and the fish steeped in
- chemical wastes. Even the cool, clear water that comes out of
- every kitchen tap is suspected of being a witch's brew laced
- with lead, microorganisms and industrial pollutants. To many
- people, eating and drinking have become death-defying feats. No
- wonder sales of "organic" foods and bottled waters have surged
- to new heights.
- </p>
- <p> Is the growing paranoia justified? How safe are the U.S.
- food and water supplies? The reassuring answer: very safe. In
- fact, the country's food and water systems are the safest in its
- history and among the safest in the world today. Despite all the
- alarms, the dangers to human health appear to be quite small.
- </p>
- <p> Many Americans harbor a grossly distorted and exaggerated
- view of most of the risks surrounding food. Fergus Clydesdale,
- head of the department of food science and nutrition at the
- University of Massachusetts-Amherst, says bluntly that if the
- dangers from bacterially contaminated chicken were as great as
- some people believe, "the streets would be littered with people
- lying in the gutters."
- </p>
- <p> Though the public increasingly demands no-risk food, there
- is no such thing. Bruce Ames, chairman of the biochemistry
- department at the University of California, Berkeley, points out
- that up to 10% of a plant's weight is made up of natural
- pesticides. Says he: "Since plants do not have jaws or teeth to
- protect themselves, they employ chemical warfare." And many
- naturally produced chemicals, though occurring in tiny amounts,
- prove to be potent carcinogens in laboratory tests. Mushrooms
- and broccoli might be banned if they were judged by the same
- standards that apply to food additives. Declares Christina
- Stark, a nutritionist at Cornell University: "We've got far
- worse natural chemicals in the food supply than anything
- man-made."
- </p>
- <p> Yet the issues are not that simple. While Americans have no
- reason to be terrified to sit down at the dinner table, they
- have every reason to demand significant improvements in food and
- water safety. They unwittingly and unwillingly ingest too much
- of too many dangerous chemicals. If food already contains
- natural carcinogens, it does not make much sense to add dozens
- of new man-made ones. Though most people will withstand the
- small amounts of contaminants generally found in food and water,
- at least a few individuals will probably get cancer one day
- because of what they eat and drink.
- </p>
- <p> To make good food and water supplies even better, the
- Government needs to tighten its regulatory standards, stiffen
- its inspection program and strengthen its enforcement policies.
- The food industry should modify some long-accepted practices or
- turn to less hazardous alternatives. Perhaps most important,
- consumers will have to do a better job of learning how to handle
- and cook food properly. The problems that need to be addressed
- exist all along the food-supply chain, from fields to processing
- plants to kitchens.
- </p>
-
- </body></article>
- </text>
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